01/14/2024 Bikepacking Guinea Day 159 : Babou

by Brian · Published January 14, 2024 · Updated March 3, 2024

The country I’m currently visiting had not been blocking Strava as recently as 12 days ago when I was last here. They were only blocking the server that handles video (which is a server used by many media outlets, so that is understandable). Now, upon my return, Strava is also blocked, which is a little creepy considering the timing and stuff I’ve been writing. Therefore, I plan to write less detail just to be on the safe side. Also, for those of you who have sent me messages on Strava, I can see that you’ve sent the messages, but because the app is blocked, I have no way of reading them. I’m not ignoring you, but it will be a few days before I can reply. Meanwhile, I found a tedious combination of techniques to use the website (not app) directly.

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Today’s word of the day is Babou; that is what kids yelled at me in the local dialect. For what it’s worth, when kids call out, it is friendly. They are smiling and laughing. When I walked to the store this afternoon, 5 kids ran to me to shake hands and then hold my hands and walk with me. In a Strava Comment, Stephen said that maybe things would get better away from the border, and it seems he was right. I remember liking certain aspects of “the other” Guinea highlands, and that seems to be true in these lower highlands as well.

I got a hotel so I could wash my clothes. They don’t actually have electricity in this city, but the hotels all have diesel generators. They will run it from 7pm until midnight. I can charge my stuff and get a break from the heat (air conditioning!) once the hot part of the day is over 🙄.

As you know, I didn’t want to go to Sierra Leone; I only ended up crossing into SL for an IC visa. Now that I’ve been there I’m glad I went. That’s it Before this trip, I had read the blog of Pushbikegirl. I remember telling Janet, “Pushbikegirl is so negative, but it can’t be that bad.”

Pushbikegirl’s name is Heike. She is well traveled. Not only is she a great photographer, but she is also an excellent writer. If I search the internet, her blog is the only one I can find (from here) that discusses bike touring in Sierra Leone.

After SL, I went back and re-read Heike’s accounts. I no longer think she is too negative. In fact, I admire her for her bravery to try and accurately describe the conditions in SL to a Western audience. What she says rings true; in fact, her sentiments and experiences are remarkably similar to mine. I am traveling 4 years later. I didn’t have the courage to be as direct as her, so if you want another look at Sierra Leone, here it is:

I’ll leave it there for tonight. In a few days when I leave Guinea, I hope to return to writing my own stories.

Photos:

There are people most everywhere. I was at 1500’ of elevation again, but this time the dew point was 60F instead of 76F. I searched the satellite for possible camping… and suddenly saw a school. I laughed to myself: no one will come here. It was a peaceful night with good sleep I could hear the town with no electricity blasting music until midnight. Thanks for earplugs!

The seasons are changing!

The wells are generally functioning in this part of the country. Much better than the previous leg.

Power. On! This device protects your electronics. From the surges that happen when the generator initiates.

This map helps explain the changes I experience in the calls. Toubabab, White Man, Apotho, Uncle, Daddy, Babou… each country is subdivided into little “countries” with different languages and different behaviors. As a general rule, this country seems to be less agressiventhan Sierra Leone.

Strava Comments:

Mark G.

Ahhh, air conditioning, privacy, clothes washing, charging, etc. must feel like a big breath of "fresh air". ........I've followed pushbikegirl for awhile and she definitely chameleons her travel methods as the environment changes or her situation.

Mark G.

The photos have all been fantastic. Love the are the bike shots, campsites, signs, "village" scenes, folks that lifted your spirits. Your bike gets a A++ so far.

J&K S.

I had a little chuckle about knowing you wouldn't be bothered camping at the school! You and the goats had the place to yourselves!

Gordon L.

Thanks for the link to pushbikegirl. Gripping account with many questions and few answers, much like yours. Sad and beautiful in ways. Overall - disorienting.

Ann L.

Thanks for including the push girl link. I see she had a lot of similar perceptions of things. So hard to comprehend what things are like there versus here.

Janet W.

It's good to see you enjoying Guinea now. I wish you could stay cooler at 3000 feet for the rest of the trip, but see that's not possible. I like the photo of the guys riding your bike. It fits him perfectly and he looks fast! Also, it's cool that so many African countries are participating in the soccer tourney AFCON. They can set aside their conflicts and recent coup hardships and have some fun!