12/07/2023 Bikepacking Mauritania Day 121 : Iron Ore Train Day – Part 1 of 2

by Brian · Published December 7, 2023 · Updated March 3, 2024

The thing I worry about most on these trips is flying. I know that statistically, that is foolish: an accident with a vehicle is much more likely… but i have so much dread of flying i worried about Janet until I got a message from her that she had landed safely at LAX. I’ll confess that the only thing I have been dreading more than the flight is this train ride. I’m not super worried about the safety (though that is a consideration, as it derailed last week). Im worried about the dirty discomfort for many hours… and the possibility of damaging the bike during the loading and unloading process. Oh, and I’m worried about people grabbing stuff off the bike and running - cuz I have heard that happens (I tied the zippers shut with twine).

I’m excited to take the train too, though, as it gains access to a (probably) nicer section of Mauritania. Nouadhibou was pretty crummy in my opinion. The probability of seeing a smile was about equal to the probability of someone stopping at a red light. Both happen sometimes. Of course, the red lights were rare: it seemed like all of the traffic lights were full of sand like the ATMs, and most were not working.

This morning, I had that renewed and excited energy: ready to see some stuff.. so I rode South to Cap Blanc - in the Banc d'Arguin National Park. It is a marine reserve with an interpretive center. This area has the largest remaining colony of Mediterranean Monk Seals (about 270). A big epidemic wiped most of them out in the 90s.

I loved getting out of the nasty city and took a side trip to a small town called “Cansado” (tired, in Spanish). Wow! About half the people in the street were picking up trash. There was a garbage truck driving down the street. It was CLEAN. This made me happy - to see people actually taking care of their town. I wonder if they just drive the trash over to the streets of Nouadhibou and dump it there? People smiled. I rode around the dirt streets, but just said “hi” to people (didn’t want to spend too much time due to train plan). South of this town, in the reserve, there was almost zero trash. It was nice and uplifting. I saw a group of 20 military guys walking - following slowly moving truck. They were friendly. When I passed them again on the return trip 45 minutes later, they were still moving. I guess this was some sort of hike training?

And then I rushed to get to the station by 2pm. A guy said the train comes at 4pm and leaves at 5pm. I will be happy if that is how it works out!

Photos:

The town of Cansado. Clean streets with trash collection and even a place to put your trash. I wonder if they just drive the trash over to the streets of Nouadhibou and dump it there?

The route out to the Cape. Nice riding if you have a full suspension MTB! No cars and beautiful peace.

At the cape itself. I did not see the endangered Monk Seals.

Here is the train station! There is an actual waiting room inside. There are about 50 seats that were all empty. I was sitting on one, and a guy came in to sit down. Out of the 50 seats, he chose the one closest to me. Then he lay down across the seats, his feet nearly in my lap - and started coughing. It’s almost as if he didn’t want to be alone. After he coughed again, I moved to a different seat. Luckily he wasn’t so lonely as to follow me.

Strava Comments:

Mark G.

I'm glad you went to Casado and saw a different type of humanity. I am wondering about trees. Are there many if any non irrigated trees? The Arctic is also a desert (cause the water is frozen so long) and in Kotzebue there was a small tree with a fence around it titled Kotzebue National Forest.

Sօʀƈɛʀɛʀ 🅅.

I wonder;does the Iron Ore Train actually move iron ore form one place to another; what kind of equipment carriages, tractors, engines, gauge etc does it use, what the topography is like that it traverses, and what sort of people travel in the train, and why? Bon voyages Brian.

Sօʀƈɛʀɛʀ 🅅.

There is a litter problem in Santa Clara County that is getting worse.

Ann L.

Nice to hear you found an area where people are actually picking up the trash. So weird how the sand messes up ATMs and traffic lights. You think they would devise sand proof ones. Hoping and praying all goes ok on the train for you. Looking forward to hearing about it.

Janet W.

I'm happy your train journey is underway. That was so cool when you called for a "visual only" showing of you in the moving train car - all wrapped up in your sheet. Bon voyage! So glad you're feeling positive about your journey again.

mary P.

Good luck on train ride. I have truly enjoyed your journey each day.

Nancy P.

If I were a painter 👩‍🎨 I would paint that first photo of the boats 😊. I see the train station but no tracks. Are they visible from this view?

Megan M.

I never made it to the northern reaches of Mauritania in the 3+ years i lived there. I'm looking forward to your dispatches!