02/05/2024 Bikepacking Ghana Day 181 : The Promise of Oborɔnyi

by Brian · Published February 5, 2024 · Updated October 24, 2024

Today’s objective was to visit both the Boti and Akaa waterfalls.

I had to work hard because like yesterday, the road was constantly ascending (or descending) short but steep 100 foot hills. As such, I didn’t linger to talk to people as much.

No worries, though, because people could still seek me out on their motorbikes. A group of 3 guys caught me on a climb and rode alongside telling me to stop. This happens every day, and I’ll use my judgement as to whether I should comply or not. This group of 3 guys seemed kind of “off,” so I just pushed harder. You may be surprised, but a full suspension bicycle on roads this rough can ditch a 125cc motorcycle with 3 people on it on downhills, and sometimes even on flat terrain.

The driver of the motorcycle said, “We love you,” as they kept pace riding beside me.

Like I said, this happens almost every day: both the motorcycle riding alongside me…. Or someone saying, “I love you.” For better or for worse, we are a lot more judicious with the “L” word back home.

I stopped, and they jumped off and circled me.

The “we love you” guy was in front of my bike and he had already unwrapped a plastic bag and was revealing some marijuana. The first I had seen since those guys smoking in Mauritania.

The other two guys were on my sides. No one else was around. They were probably just trying to sell it to me, but their cajoling voices gave me a bad vibe. I took advantage of them being off the bike, remounted, and bolted past the Chronic Lover. They eventually caught me again, but now I was in a tiny village and decided to stop amongst some villagers. I’m sure this was as harmless as them trying to sell me stuff, but I know that people can get into big trouble in foreign countries whenever illicit substances are involved.

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Oborɔnyi is the local word in the Akan language for “white man,” though most just call me “white man.” At the waterfall, the entry fee for Oborɔnyi is $12 USD, but without me asking, they reduced it to $8 because it is the dry season.

My guide was named Promise. I asked if that was his real name, and he said yes.

I told him, “I’ve never met a Promise before,” and he told me about his experiences working 6 years in the fishing industry. He worked at sea, but the job had taken him to Guinea, Sierra Leone, and Liberia.

I also met his co-worker named Joe. Joe told me he already had his passport. The group of men explained that it is difficult to get your Ghana passport; it sounded like Joe was the only one amongst them to accomplish this so far (not sure how Promise made it to the other countries). Anyway, like a few other Ghanan’s I’ve met, Joe also wanted to ride a bicycle to Spain.

Americans may think bike touring is expensive, but it doesn’t have to be. Local food (rice or yams) is very cheap throughout the region. With a bike, blanket, and backpack, one could probably travel on less than a few dollars per day (if you don’t need medicine and don’t have to fly anywhere and are willing to spend time waiting for someone to make you a meal - ironically cheaper than packaged food). If you already take a bucket shower at home, that isn’t very different from the camping lifestyle. Africans also don’t need to pay the expensive visas that Americans do… until they want to cross the Mediterranean…

Promise asked, “But how did you cross the water? I heard it is very dangerous and people often die. This is why I did not go to Spain.”

I started to answer, “the boat is very cheap and is definitely safe…”

Then I realized, he wasn’t talking about the ferry that can hold 100 cars..

Apparently he had heard of many people meeting their demise in rickety boats trying to illegally cross the Mediterranean.

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Well, I decided to skip the Akaa waterfall. Promise told me it is the same water as the Boti falls (just further downstream). Boti was a very pretty setting, but it would probably be a lot nicer during the rainy season.

Well, Ghana kind of feels like home, but it’s obvious I’m getting even closer: Today I saw a KFC! I almost took a photo 😆

Photos:

I’m into the tourist areas! Color and art. —

Boti falls - only a trickle today. This whole area is a pool during the wet season! —

Male and Female sex organ stone? I missed that part of the tour. —

You really wouldn’t believe the dust. On this road, It was white-out conditions whenever a vehicle went by. Everything I own is covered in dust, no matter how well sealed. I wonder if the reason I haven’t been able to kick this cold is partly related to the respiratory environment. —

Photo for Boris - he was asking how I seat tubeless tires on the road. I’ve posted about this before, but I’ll post again for others. It’s a soda bottle that can handle pressure. I made the cap from two old inner tubes. I release the binder clip once I have pumped the bottle up to about 80-100 psi. I remove the valve core before doing this so the air flows as well as possible. For recalcitrant rim/tire combos, I’ll usually pre-set one side of the tire using a tube… remove the tube leaning one side of the tire fully seated. This makes it easier later when you only have to seat one side. This device works really well on gravel (smaller volume) and UST rims. I have had some difficulties on taped rims. I’ve been building my own UST wheels, generally.. but that is A LOT of work. The bottle has 2 other purposes. Drinking water during the day… and then I use the same pressure cap as a slow release shower at camp. This means I can get clean enough with just one liter of water - and I’m picky about sleeping clean. —

Strava Comments:

Vicki C.

From ditching motorcycles to seating tubeless tires and making a very efficient water bottle shower, I’m always impressed, entertained and learning from you! I’m also so excited that in a few days, sleeping clean will require no special equipment and people won’t be chasing you down yelling, “I love you” (except for Janet, of course:)

Sօʀƈɛʀɛʀ 🅅.

Brian I still haven't made one of those PET bottle inflators, and I need one. What I have been using are these wide thin latex hoop bands that I stretch over the rim and install the tire over (wet the strip for slipperyiness) which create a seal against the bead no matter what sort of tire/rim and make bead setting easy. I carry a spare strip. Those in combination with the charging bottle would be great. The latex is thin light and nothing like butyl tube rubber. Later it bonds to the tire bead which can reduce the chance of burping. I only wrote this in case anyone else here who mountain bikes would like to know about them. Look up slim fatty stripper latex tire strips. I'm always on the lookout for geological genitalia. Fueling my imagination. Respiratory challenges are difficult in those conditions. Hopefully the clean air of home will cure you.

Boris F.

Thanks for posting Brian Lucido , that's one of the things that concerns me about longer trips. It's good to know that there are tricks. Straps are also a good idea. thx for the tip, Paul.

Mark G.

Love the hub cap artistic cemetery. Fantastic tree carvingsI like to check out the hubcaps I see cycling. BTW I found a photo of Organ Rock.

Janti of the J.

That bottles' great. Seems like with the right size miniature spray nozzle, you could also take a low flow pressurized shower.

Brian L.

Vicki Carroll - I laughed out loud when I read your “except Janet of course.” Thanks. I think the image of Janet on a motorcycle saying “I love you” is too funny. Thanks for the laugh and all of your thoughtful replies😊

Brian L.

Boris Fölsch - I think of you carry Paul’s strips and the compressor cap, and a spare tube, you’re set! I carry those tubalito tubes. In 181 days, I only used them to seat the bead once. Rest of the time, just carried them - so glad I got the ultralight ones.

Paula G.

I thought it was funny that 'Male and Female sex organ stone' and 'Prayer rock' were so close together. I'm sure that your cold is being prolonged by the dust! Clean clear Atascadero awaits you....and Janet too.