02/08/2024 Bikepacking Ghana Day 184 : Chameleon Dreams

by Brian · Published February 8, 2024 · Updated October 24, 2024

I'm heading home after 184 days! This has been a fantastic trip of learning for me, and I was so pleased to have the opportunity to experience West and North Africa from the seat of a bicycle. I have a great deal of gratitude for the people who welcomed me, shared their stories, and kept me from feeling lonesome at all times. I was never lonely.

Also, I want to thank the people who read my posts. Sometimes they were long winded, and maybe even opinionated. Plus, my opinions changed along the way, making me feel a little self-contradictory: Especially with regard to my opinions about handing out gifts and money. I appreciate your patience as well as your curious and uplifting comments that kept me on the ball.

Everywhere I went in West Africa, people would approach me with vitality and energy. I boarded the airplane which went from Ghana to a transfer airport in Amsterdam. I had been the only white guy for months - connecting exclusively with black people. So, it was a huge culture shock to land in Amsterdam.

Almost all of the people on my plane were black. And when I got to Amsterdam, I was still a white man amongst many blacks. Except now everything was different. The people who used to run up to me with big smiles now averted their eyes, kept quiet, and sat apart in the airport - almost as if they were trying to hide. Heck, it probably looks a lot like what I had been trying to do in Western Africa: Hide, not draw attention, be a Chameleon....

I've learned a lot on this trip; not just about North/Western Africa, but also about myself. Ourselves. Humans.

Time to process.

Photos:

Found foam behind an electric fence! Carefully pulled the sheet out. It was last minute on the way to the airport, but really made a big difference in packing the bike. It took me 3 hours to pack, but it’s carbon so you have to do a good job. Just a few more “white man! give me money’s” and one “give me your bike,” and the gauntlet of actually entering the airport (being kept out and laughed at as well as being “supervised”). Soon, I will be blending in the melting pot like a chameleon! —

Strava Comments:

Stan H.

You rode to the airport!!!! So awesome! (shaking my head) 👊

Ann L.

Yay bike packed and on your way home! I know your sweetie is anxiously awaiting your return. She even rode her bike with extra pep today in anticipation of your home coming 😊

Janet W.

Happy to see you're 'in the air'! Good job, that does look like an A+ bike wrapping job. I liked your smile in the mega-market style store yesterday. Yes, today Ann Luce 's encouragement and a tail wind helped me pedal hard up hwy 46. I'll be ready for some tandem time once you get home and rest up!

Mark G.

See you soon. Hope your flights and layover are going well.

steve F.

Brian! We are excited to give you a hug and a high five soon when you return home. Our family has really enjoyed hearing of your adventures! We all come together every night to read your most recent post and look at pictures screen shared on the TV. We have loved hearing about all the good and challenging experiences on this trek. You are a true champion dude! Plus we have learned about Africa from your awesome writing. I haven’t been an active commenter on Strava but know that our family has been following along and cheering you on ever step of the way. See you soon!

László P.

👌

Jessica M.

What an adventure and a lifetime of memories! Thanks for taking us on your journey as well. Glad you are headed back home - I am sure Janet can’t wait.

Sօʀƈɛʀɛʀ 🅅.

Please let me join your many followers with another warm welcome home Brian. The whole thing has been an ordeal of epic proportions as well as an engrossing and fascinating learning experience. Thanks for sharing candid views and generously carrying us vicariously along for the ride.

Paula G.

Another great trip in the books. What will I do with my evenings now. You have reminded me of my favorite teacher from High School....Mr Engelbret. On Fridays he would spend the whole period talking about his travels. It's so much easier to learn from someone who has actually lived what they are teaching. Welcome almost home!

Janet W.

Paula G, I had Mr Engelbret too! I didn’t remember that you did too. I loved his travel stories too. He was an excellent storyteller and really made me want to explore. It took awhile for me to start traveling. You can too, in between playdates with you grandkids!

DogMeat Q.

Welcome home Brian! Stan Hooper of course he rode to the airport!!!

Stan H.

DogMeat QueenⓋ I know! When has he not ridden to the airport!?! 😂

Scooter R.

What an adventure you’ve had Brian. Thank you for bringing us along and for the time and effort to post each day. It’s been fascinating to follow your trip.