12/08/2023 LMDIYA Day 122 : Dreamline

by Brian · Published December 8, 2023 · Updated April 4, 2025

It’s rare to meet an English speaker, but a friendly guy named Mohammed started asking questions about the bike at the train depot yesterday. He distinguished himself somewhat from a run-of-the-mill Mohammed by saying he was “Mohammed Abdul”. We discussed my nationality, and he asked:

“Why is the United States killing the Palestine women and children?”

I tried to explain that I didn’t think the US is doing that, though we both agreed that the US is actively giving money to Israel. He said, “But the USA is the judge.”

Is the USA killing women and children? It is hard to discern culpability in these complex networks of money and weapons. I don’t really know; there is so much I don’t know. For sure, I’m not going to change the world by trying to convince M-Abdul that the USA is innocent.

Because he spoke English, this topic of discussion was possible for us at a deeper level… I wonder if this is what much of the Muslim world believes? Maybe this is why that border guy was bullying me over “The United Stares of WHAT” the other day.

“Jesus was from Bethlehem. Mohammed is from Jerusalem,” he continued. “Israel is the place for all the religions to be together.”

I know you’re not supposed to talk politics or religion, but I’m always eager to listen to what people have to say. To get people to feel comfortable talking, I won’t discuss my own beliefs much. For me, I don’t care if you want to call him/her “God,” or “Allah,” or “The over soul,” or “the universe”. In all cases, it’s belief in a power greater than you. And If God doesn’t humble you, nature sure as heck will.

Oh yeah, nature served me a piece of humble pie today with the winds, mostly from in front. I met a 26 year old touring cyclist named “Giorgo” (sp?). We rode together for at least half an hour at his pace. I always like talking to young bike tourists; they have such natural curiosity and enthusiasm about what they are seeing. I think mid-20s are the most inspired years. Giorgo and I shared our likes and woes about what we have seen. He told me how he had seen foreign tourists coercing children to pose for the camera by offering them gifts and candy.

“It’s like they are zoo animals.”

He continued, “The tourists come to Mauritania, take their pictures and then get shuttled away in a van and say, ‘I saw Mauritania’”. He wasn’t mad; “I’m going to need some time to process all of this,” he concluded.

His “zoo animal” comment really hit home. He’s right. Although I hadn’t witnessed the practice, I know that is what has been happening, otherwise, why would I have all these odd requests. Today a little girl and two boys approached me when I walked out of a store holding food. All three said, “cadeaux” (gift; just the noun). Since these kids looked a little disheveled, I handed the girl my 4 pack of (sweetened) yogurt. She pushed it away with a look of disgust, instead pointing at my water bottles, my pump, my bag, and repeating “cadeaux.” What is a girl without shoes going to do with a bicycle pump? The store owner promptly came out and shooed the kids away.

It was hot and dry; Giorgo had at least 5 liters of water that I could see. I only had one, so we exchanged WhatsApp and I accelerated into the wind. Along the way, from behind, I recognized a skinny guy with very short gray hair. It was One-Tooth from yesterday! He was working in the dirt, measuring something with a rope and 4 other guys. I slowed down to turn around. I could see a dozen kids running towards me from ahead to ask for a gift as I made the U. I tapped him on the shoulder to say “hi.” He turned around, and I recognized his face. He smiled and suddenly I saw at least 5 teeth. Crap! This wasn’t One-Tooth! All the guys were like “WTF?” But Five-Tooth was genial. I explained in embarrassed French, “pardon me, I thought you were the other person.” Five-tooth was as cool as his doppelgänger, “What is your nationality?” He smiled. The kids arrived just in time to watch this exchange in bewilderment. I apologized some more and rode off. Not one kid grabbed me or said a word. Perhaps I have found a new strategy!

In the final leg, I saw a donkey running towards me on a side road. He was quickly pulling a cart with jugs of water. Far behind him, a young man with a bright yellow and green soccer outfit was chasing the donkey. The man looked like Usain Bolt, but the donkey was winning. I dropped my bike in the sand, and since the donkey was coming right towards me, it was easy to head him off. I grabbed the cart from behind and tried to dig in. Instead, it turned into a waterskiing ride (except on sand - fun!) This extra drag slowed the donkey enough that Usain could catch up. He said thanks (I assume), making some clicking noises with his mouth. That seems to be a thing in Mauritania that I forgot to tell you about: some people make these clicking noises sometimes whenever they talk. Not sure what that is, but I am sure that this post is too long. So, I bid you Good night!

Photos:

There are just a bunch of small buildings and mud huts when you get off the train at 3am… so Ari and his brothers made a welcoming auberge. He offered tea, I asked for no sugar. Like everyone in Mauritania so far, he said, “it is impossible.” They give you a bag of Lipton instead. Since he spoke English, was nice, and I was paying him for the room… I kept asking, and he finally agreed. You drink 3 cups, each brewed separately (meaning it is a time consuming process). He saves the first brew to add a bit to each remaining pot. It gets complex with the sugar thing. He’d pour me a little glass, but then have to repeat the foam pouring (you pour back and forth between the glass and the pot many times to generate from)… he’d have to repeat this for his cup - adding copious amounts of sugar.

When talking to Mohammed Abdul, we used the Arabic translator for the more complex messages.

Giorgo. Did I mention he speaks Arabic and English? He is amongst the bike tourists who’s style I really like. I like the reasons he is out here, and his observations, and his “no plan” approach. A bit jealousy his Arabic skills.

Much of the way, there were tiny mud huts like this or thatched ones.

This is why I wanted to come out here… mountains!

So this huge bag is for water delivery, I think. Water is tough to get out here. The campground I’m staying at tonight has a switch where you activate a little pump.. but the water isn’t stored anywhere, so you have to turn it on any time you need to wash your hands.

Strava Comments:

Stan H.

Great stories, Brian, and good catch on the donkey. I wonder if the clicking while speaking is the same as depicted in the movie “The Gods Must Be Crazy”, which was set in Kalahari Desert of South Africa.

Stephen Mark R.

You're right to avoid contentious subjects. Conflicts have a present and a past that we often, or never, can fully see. Without doubt, the perspectives of others are every bit as valid as our own. There is plenty of evidence on both, or every, side. In the end, your travels attempt to transcend cultural, religious and political differences. It's a challenge. Few people ever put themselves in the position of lone traveller in foreign lands, exposed as only walking or cycling can do. It's a big life and you are certainly experiencing it.

Ali G.

Mohammed Abdul is right the US is absolutely culpable giving unconditional foreign aid to Israel (more than any country in the world) and vetoing UN resolutions critical of Israel. The US is absolutely funding massacres with our tax dollars, the US is an exception in the world in supporting Israel (the majority of countries recognize Palestine), and I don't think it's about religion at all, it's about power and racism.

Janet W.

I think it can promote understanding to have friendly conversations about politics in other countries. The news doesn’t often show what citizen think. In my Spanish class in Málaga in October my young Moroccan classmate said that Israel wouldn’t be attacking Palestine now without the help of the US. I agreed with him and said I was sorry. Brian Lucido, I really like the map video and am happy to see the road that’s missing from Google satellite. I see why you live it out there!

Mark G.

I am surprised at the amount of cell/data/Internet service that seems to be available to you. I am wondering if it considered a free utility for citizens.

Tony B.

My world view was turned upside down by a coworker who was Muslim. When the Iraq war broke out she would come into my cubicle and just about crying and complaining about how Americans are killing innocent women and children indiscriminately by bombing them. It was not what Americans were seeing on TV! It’s what she was seeing on her channels and what she heard on radio. Her views was that our money was the ultimate corrupter and made us global bullies. At the time I made a flippant comment about money talks and BS walks. I so regretted that statement because you can see what is happening in Gaza. The pursuit of oil back then made us have strange bed partners. We needed peace in the Middle East for the oil that greases our economy’s wheels. With our now booming domestic oil capabilities that has changed how we have to treat the Middle East. It should hopefully change our international relations to more humanitarian purposes.

David L.

The thatched room with a bathroom is amazing. You must have felt like you were at the Four Seasons! I assume this must be a tourist destination or stopover of some sort.

Stan H.

Following along via Gaia World Imagery. I see the route from Aoujeft to Tidjikja is paved, but with some blown sand. About 200 miles in total, with a lake(?) about a third of the way to Tidjikja, and a settlement Ain ec Cefra about half way. Looks awesome!

Sօʀƈɛʀɛʀ 🅅.

Brian, your post was not too long for me. From here, to me, politics is something few discuss openly in mixed company anymore. It's not good. Privately in groups I find I can express my views and opinions, and I base them on facts. But even among groups where I presume (and I admit presumption is never a good resort) there is often unspoken dissent. Anyway i remember in Switzerland I made friends with a family and had supper where the patriarch asked me some pointed questions about Ronald Reagan who was elected at the time. He made many excellent observations and predictions all of which came true, and I was supposed to answer for the USA to a large audience at a dinner table. Being put in the spot, I merely attempted to mollify them with superficial remarks that hid my views which were pretty much identical to the patriarch because I didn't want to inflame things even more. Well here we are today in a neo gilded age, made even worse by many factors. I try to avoid politics at work and make little to none postings on the internet myself. We probably realize that making stereotypes is a flawed rhetoric, but culture finds the device useful for simplicity. We lose nuance, and a lot more. Riding to work this morning I thought about praying to Mecca as a practice. That's as close as I'll get for now.

Jessica M.

That was a beautiful room and bathroom!!

Judy I.

It is so difficult to represent the United States while bicycling abroad. It was easier when Trump was in office because I could blame him, shrug and give the thumbs down sign, but who do I blame now? Not sure if learning to pray to Mecca is going to help Sօʀƈɛʀɛʀ 🅅 but I agree we need a new path.